Introduction:

Tan Yimei, Wang Xuemin, Fan Guobiao and other teams (Skin and Cosmetics Research Laboratory of Shanghai Dermatology Hospital) published an article in Chinese Journal of Aesthetic MedicinePublish a paper exploring the skin barrier repair effect of different ratios of physiological lipids through professional testing instruments, providing scientific basis for optimizing the formulation of barrier repair agents.

Summary（Abstract）

Purpose:

use Coneof i xRThe method of pasting skin keratin and observing the water loss rate through the epidermis before and after pasting（TEWLValue), stratum corneum thickness（SCTValue and density（SCDCompare the effects of different physiological lipid ratios of barrier repair agents on the function and integrity of the stratum corneum barrier through changes in their values.

Method:

In 33 Healthy female subjects were tested on their upper back for two consecutive daysConeof i xRPaste the skin separately3 Film6 Film10Pre - and post film inspectionTEWLValue, in pasting10 Pre - and post film inspectionSCTValue andSCDValue. The8Tian Tu4 Physiological lipid ratio barrier repair agent and5%Glycerol moisturizing cream twice, the first time9Check again. Result: Apply physiological lipid barrier repair agents mainly composed of ceramide and cholesterol at the siteConeof i xRpaste3 Before and after the filmTEWLNo significant difference in value（P>0. 05）； And in pasting6 Film10 Before and after the filmTEWLThe increase in value is smaller than that of other test substances; Apply ceramide based barrier repair agents at the siteSCTValue in useCor neof i xRpaste10 The decrease after the film is minimal, andSCDValue increase, apply5%The opposite is true for glycerin moisturizing cream.

Conclusion:

The short-term use of physiological lipid barrier repair agents mainly composed of ceramides has a protective effect on the skin from physical damage such as tape adhesion in four formulations;SCTValue andSCDEvaluate the skin barrier function from the perspective of detecting the integrity and adhesion of the stratum corneum.

【Keywords:Skin barrier; Integrity of stratum corneum; Adhesive force of stratum corneum; Physiological lipids

Transdermal water lossValue detection related analysis:

This study adopts the principle of closureBioxAquaFluxTransdermal moisture loss measuring instrumentdetectionTransdermal water lossTEWLThe instrument measures the water flow rate through the condenser chamber and has significant advantages among similar instruments. The test results show that when the product is not applied, the back is stuckCorneofix® 3After the filmTEWLThe value change is not significant, onlyATheEThere is a significant difference between the baseline values in the region and those not pasted, while there is no significant difference in other regions; This is different from before3MAfter applying tape to the face and buttocksTEWLThe results of the changes in values are not the same, indicating that the use of different tapes and different parts for pasting has different effects on the skin barrier. Relevant studies have confirmed this point, so the application of tape pasting technology needs to be standardized. After using four different formulations of barrier repair agents for protection, each areaCorneofix®paste3Film6Film10Before and after the filmTEWLThere is no significant difference in the value change（P>0.05）The results indicate that there is no significant difference in the short-term application of four physiological lipid barrier repair agents in protecting against skin barrier damage; But from the trend of data, the application of formula two (mainly ceramide) and formula four (mainly free fatty acids)TEWLThe changes in values are smaller than those of formula one (equimolar ratio) and formula three (mainly composed of cholesterol), and the former has a tendency to have better short-term protection against skin barrier dysfunction than the latter. In addition, pasting3After the film, apply5%Glycerol Moisturizing CreamTEWLThe change in value is much greater than that of the four physiological lipid ratio barrier repair agents.

Research conclusion:

① Short term use of a physiological lipid barrier repair agent mainly composed of ceramide (Formula 2) has a protective effect on the skin from physical damage such as tape adhesion among the four repair agents; ②SCTValue andSCDThe value can evaluate the skin barrier function from the perspective of integrity and adhesion of the stratum corneum; ③5%The protective effect of glycerol moisturizing cream on skin barrier damage and maintaining the integrity of the stratum corneum is lower than that of the four physiological lipid barrier repair agents; ④ The short-term use of physiological lipid barrier repair agents does not have a significant protective effect on the skin barrier, and their long-term effectiveness can be further studied.